Chasing Stars Through Spiti – A Journey Beyond the Skies
- Ritik Shah
- Jun 30
- 7 min read
Ever since I pointed my first telescope towards the cosmos, I’ve dreamt of taking it to a place where the stars shine with unparalleled brilliance. Last year, that dream became a reality. Along with my two dedicated teammates, I organized an astro tour to the remote and breathtaking Spiti Valley.
Spiti Valley. A place where the sky feels closer, time slows down, and every night turns into a celestial spectacle. Organizing and leading an astro tour through this remote Himalayan paradise was not just a professional milestone—it was a deeply personal, transformative experience. This is the story of that journey, a personal chronicle of chasing meteor showers and galaxies across one of the most stunning landscapes on Earth.
🚌 Day 1: Gathering Under Cloudy Skies – Chandigarh to Narkanda
Our adventure began in Chandigarh, the convenient meeting point for our diverse group of 31 participants, who hailed from all corners of India. Ranging in age from 8 to 66, they brought with them a shared curiosity for the cosmos. After pickups from the airport and railway station, we clicked a cheerful group photo and set off for Narkanda via Shimla.
The journey itself was picturesque, with smooth roads offering expansive valley views. However, the monsoon season had its own plans, bringing cloudy skies, and our first night in Narkanda was wrapped in fog and rain, giving our telescopes a night off and our tired travelers a much-needed rest.
🏞️ Day 2: Chitkul - India's Last Village & First Curiosity
Early next morning, we set off towards Chitkul, the last inhabited village before the China border. The roads were a mix of smooth stretches and risky, landslide-prone patches, but the views were a worthy reward. Our hotel here, perched near the Baspa River with an army camp nearby, a reminder of how close we were to the edge of India, became our first base for cosmic exploration.
With the sky still cloudy, I decided to hold an indoor orientation on astronomy. It was a lively, interactive session where I got a sense of everyone's prior experience with stargazing. A key point of excitement was the upcoming Perseids meteor shower, which was predicted to peak when we would be at the magnificent Chandratal Lake. I briefed everyone on what meteor showers are and what makes the Perseids special, and the group was buzzing with questions and diligently taking notes.
🏔️ Day 3: Into the Cold Desert – Nako and the Changing Landscape
Leaving the lush greenery of the Shivalik and lesser Himalayas, we drove into the trans-Himalayan Spiti Valley. The landscape transformed dramatically into an arid, cold desert. The mountains stood bare and majestic, devoid of trees. We paused at Khab Sangam, where the Spiti and Sutlej rivers merge—a moment that felt symbolic: two paths becoming one. The bus ride was full of joy—strangers turned companions as we shared stories, played games, and jammed to Bollywood songs. For many solo travellers, it became an unexpected circle of friends.
As we climbed higher towards Nako, the clouds began to part, a welcome sign of the valley's famously dry climate, where rain is a rarity. Nako greeted us with a postcard-perfect setting. From our hotel, snow-capped peaks stood silently in the distance, while a serene pond lay nearby, still in summer, but known to freeze in winter, when locals turn it into a natural skating rink. That contrast of life and landscape was magical.
We set up a telescope at each hotel, and despite periodic clouds, we managed to show our enthusiastic group a host of celestial objects over two hours. I found myself moving between the two locations, sharing stories and mythologies from Indian and Greek cultures related to the constellations of Scorpius, Sagittarius, and Hercules, which were gloriously visible. The response was incredible; people were captivated and eager for more. I also had the pleasure of helping one participant with his personal astrophotography setup, enabling him to capture stunning images of the Veil and Elephant Trunk nebulae.
🏙️ Day 4-5: Life in Spiti’s Capital – Kaza
We continued toward Kaza, the heart of Spiti. Before reaching, we stopped at Tabo Monastery, one of the oldest monasteries in the Himalayas (dating back to 996 AD), explored ancient meditation caves, and later visited the Gue Mummy Monastery, home to a 500-year-old naturally preserved mummy. We were so close to the Tibet border that our iPhones switched time zones!
Our journey then led us to Kaza, the bustling heart of Spiti Valley. Situated at an impressive altitude of approximately 3,650 meters (11,980 feet), this town felt like a metropolis compared to the quiet hamlets we had passed. The high altitude was a challenge for a few participants, who needed a visit to the local hospital for oxygen, a stark reminder of the harsh but beautiful environment we were in.
Kaza gifted us with two nights of exceptionally clear skies. The first night, my colleague and I conducted another stargazing session, unveiling wonders like globular clusters, the majestic Andromeda Galaxy, and the ethereal Lagoon and Trifid nebulae. The excitement was infectious. Following the viewing, I held an astrophotography workshop, teaching participants how to capture the night sky with their mobile phones and professional cameras. I even managed a 30-minute star trail shot before clouds rolled in.
The following day was for exploring the incredible surroundings of Kaza. We visited the giant Buddha statue at Langza, and then drove to Komic, one of the world's highest villages, sitting at an elevation of about 4,587 meters (15,049 ft). We also sent postcards to our loved ones (and ourselves) from the world's highest post office in Hikkim—a unique souvenir that arrived a month later! Somewhere on the road, we climbed on top of our tempo traveller and danced to "Chaiyya Chaiyya" with drone shots capturing the moment. That rush—of music, wind, and Spiti under our feet—will live in me forever.
Evenings in Kaza were slow and meaningful. One of the highlights? Piti Café. With its warm wooden interiors, Himalayan views, and comforting food, it’s more than a café—it’s a memory. We laughed over bowls of thukpa, steamed momos, and piping hot chai. If you ever visit Kaza, don’t skip this place.
That night, back at our hotel, we set up the telescopes on the terrace for yet another session. Guests were awestruck by the views and the images they could capture simply by attaching their phones to the telescope eyepieces. We were also beginning to see the first heralds of the Perseids, with a few shooting stars streaking across the sky.
🌌 Day 6-7: The Night That Changed Everything: Perseids Meteor Shower at Chandratal Lake
The climax of our tour was the journey to the legendary Chandratal Lake, the "Moon Lake.” On the way, we stopped for lunch at a small homestay and picked fresh peas from a farm. Arriving at our campsite was a breathtaking moment. We were incredibly lucky; apart from our group, there were no other tourists, and we had this slice of heaven all to ourselves. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks, the crescent-shaped lake shimmered in blue silence. As the cold winds howled, we played a dream game of cricket against the campsite staff—bowling and batting at 14,100 ft, in 5°C, amidst the Himalayas. We won literally and in life! The night that followed? Magical.
That night, everything aligned—the darkest, clearest sky I’ve ever seen. The clarity was so profound that I could see the Andromeda Galaxy with my naked eyes. This was the peak of the Perseids meteor shower, and the cosmos put on a spectacular show. I counted nearly 200 shooting stars that night. The entire arc of the Milky Way galaxy stretched from one horizon to the other, a sight simply impossible to see from light-polluted cities. We did light painting, star trails, and mobile astrophotography—everyone felt like a child under a sky that had no end.
I didn’t sleep that night. None of us wanted to. We talked, stargazed, and just lay there, silent under the most honest sky we’d ever known.
At sunrise, we hiked 700 meters to the lake itself. What I saw there defies words. The still, crescent-shaped lake reflected snow-capped peaks in its crystal-clear waters. The peace and tranquility of that place are beyond words. Nirvana is the only word that comes close. I sat quietly on the banks, doing nothing. And in that nothingness, I found everything.
We recorded short interviews with participants about their experience, each one glowing with joy and wonder. After breakfast, we left. We didn’t want to.
🏔️ Day 8: The Descent – Chandratal to Manali and Beyond
We started our journey towards Manali, leaving the magical Spiti Valley behind. Our journey back took us through the Atal Tunnel, an engineering marvel that transported us from the arid, brown landscape of Spiti to the lush green mountains of Manali in a matter of minutes. It felt like traveling across dimensions. Our stay in Manali was calm and social. No stargazing here—just heartfelt conversations, laughter, and reflections on an unforgettable trip.
Day 9: Goodbye Never Felt So Heavy
The next day, we drove back to Chandigarh. The 12-hour journey felt short because we weren’t ready to let go. Our final dinner was full of warmth, hugs, and laughter. I boarded my train back to Mumbai... but honestly, my heart never left Spiti.
🌌 What Spiti Gave Me - Final Thoughts
This astro tour to Spiti Valley reaffirmed my belief that the night sky is one of the greatest spectacles on Earth. The experience of seeing planets, galaxies, and meteor showers through a quality telescope, especially in a pristine location, is truly transformative. For hotels situated in such dark-sky regions, offering a stargazing experience can be a unique and powerful attraction. It provides guests with an unforgettable memory and a deeper connection to the natural world.
If you ever find yourself craving clarity, stillness, or wonder, go to Spiti.
The skies are waiting.
Bring the Cosmos to Your Guests – A Note for Hotel Owners
At CTare, we don't just sell telescopes and binoculars; we provide gateways to the universe. If you are a hotel owner in a location with clear, dark skies, imagine the wonder you could offer your guests. We would be happy to collaborate to create a celestial experience that sets you apart. For everyone else inspired by this journey, I invite you to browse our collection and begin your own adventure into the cosmos. The universe is waiting.
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